UPDATE: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 - My trip to Odessa, Ukraine began as I left my office at the college and literally ran for the car where my son waited to drive me to the airport in Raleigh, NC. I laughed to myself as I ran, thinking that I was running to Odessa. But in reality, I was doing just that. We arrived at the airport a little after 3pm for my 5:05pm departure. My son let me out in front of the airport and left. I went in carrying my suit case and carry-on bag. Finding the US Airlines counter I went through the regular questions and then I had my boarding pass. Upstairs I went, passing through the security check. I made sure to put my film and camera in the basket so they would not x-ray them. They did stop my carry-on bag and had me open the music box that I was taking to my lovely lady. It made an unusual pattern on their x-ray. Then I was through. I sat and waited for my flight. At about 4:20pm I took my travel sickness pill and my magic pill. It is lorazepam and it makes a trans-atlantic flight seem like a 30-minute drive. (I do not know how this will work for anyone else but it works for me.) A doctor prescribed it to make flying easier - and it does. In no time I was on the plane and off we went for Philadelphia. All was on schedule. In Philadelphia I boarded a plane for the overnight flight to Frankfurt. Everything was as smooth as clockwork. Odessa, here I come...
UPDATE: Thursday, August 13, 1998 - I suppose that Wednesday turned into Thursday somewhere over the Atlantic as I slept. Finally, I landed in Frankfurt Germany. Perhaps it was just me, but the people behind the airline desks were so rude. I asked two or three for the gate number of my next flight and they would only rudely say, "I am busy. Down that way you can find out for yourself." This was repeated three times by people who seemed to be doing nothing. In Frankfurt it is probably best to just find your own way. Despite the minor problems, in no time I was stepping on an Ukraine International aircraft and taking off for Kiev.
Still drowsy on the flight to Kiev, the time flew. The next thing I knew we were coming in for a landing at Kiev's Borispil Airport. My first reaction as the tires of the aircraft neared the runway was that this looks like a deserted farm. There were old run-down buildings and unmowed grass all around. I feel I must say it over and over again - I love Ukraine. I think it is wonderful there. I am simply reporting what I saw as an American.
Once we had landed, we were shuttled by a bus to the terminal. There, I got in a long line awaiting getting through customs and on to see my lady. When I got up to the window, a young strict man - who looked like the stereotypical soviet, insisted that I go over to another window to get insurance. I told him I already had health insurance and did not want it. He did not hear a word I said. He simply insisted. Over to the window I went and was told to pay $7 for health insurance for my visit in Ukraine. I told the woman I did not want it and returned to the other window. The man sent me back and I just paid the $7 and got the temporary policy so I could get out of there.
Finally, I was permitted to pass. Then I approached a door, and upon opening it, found myself being stared at by about 50 people. A small circular rail held them back as I felt like I was on a stage being watched. Then, on the right side, behind the rail, I saw her. For a moment I wondered if it was her. She looked different than her photos. She smiled and waved and I stepped out where she waited eagerly. Taking my hand and speaking Russian to a man with her, we quickly exited the building to a taxi. My visit had begun.
We took the taxi to the motel where she had spent the night. You see, it had been necessary for her to fly from Odessa to Kiev the day before in order to meet me at the airport. There she collected her things and we went to another airport for the flight from Kiev to Odessa.
A small (about 40-passenger) jet was to take us to Odessa. As we approached the aircraft, I noticed the one of its tires was slick and the other had only about half its tread remaining. The plane looked well worn. Nevertheless, we all packed into the plane. With her sitting by my side, I did not even think about the risks the plane presented. In America, I would never step into such an airplane. On the flight we talked, her in English which was quite good for someone who had not spoken the language in eight years - since taking it in school. The flight took about one hour. We safely landed and there her family awaited us.
In their fiat we drove to their apartment. Upon arriving there, the exterior of the building was a bit worn for age, but as we entered their apartment it was beautiful, with high ceilings and exquisite craftsmanship. There we all sat down for a wonderful meal which began with a toast of cognac. I knew I was not in Kansas any more.
After a lovely meal, the lovely lady and I took an evening walk. It was rather dark and frankly I did not see a lot of the scenery, although the warm night air made it very comfortable. It gave us an opportunity to get to know each other.
Upon returning to the apartment, after a brief visit, it was time for bed. After an exhausting day, sleep came quickly.
UPDATE: Friday, August 14, 1998 - Today I woke up, took a cool shower, and then went to find my lady. She was asleep in the den on the couch. When I awoke her she was happy to see me. When she arose, we had fruit for breakfast and prepared for the day. Ah! My first full day in Odessa, Ukraine had begun.
Immediately after breakfast we took a walk. We had to go to some agency to get my passport registered. When in Odessa, it is necessary to have your passport stamped. The cost was $40. I had to leave my passport and return for it after lunch. I felt very funny giving up my passport.
On our walk we began to see some of the landmarks of Odessa. Sadly to say, I do not know Russian and cannot name the places I saw. Yes, I can name the opera house and the statue which stands at the top of the famous 200 steps. As a matter of fact, we walked right by the statue, and there we spoke very seriously. I did not even see the 200 steps even though I was only a few yards from them.
I had a wonderful day. I took lots of pictures and dropped the film off at at 1-day developing shop beside an Irish pub. I do not know the names, but will include them later as I come to know them. Overall, I saw a lot of the places that I had seen in postcards on the internet. It was a wonderful day.
This evening we stayed in the apartment. For supper, there were some excellent leftovers from yesterday and a fish. I do not know what kind of fish it was, but it was a whole fish which seemed to be stuffed with some type fish mix. I have no idea what it was but it was good. I was told that it is a favorite in Odessa.
The day ended all to quickly. Perhaps the clock will slow down to normal speed tomorrow. Once again I slept well. The only problem was mosquitos. There were no screens on the windows so a few mosquitos sang in my ears during the night. I did not mind since when they woke me up it just gave me another opportunity to think about where I was.
UPDATE: Saturday, August 15, 1998 - This morning I slept a little late - catching up on the exhaustion from my travels. After coffee and cake, my lady and I took to the streets to see more sights. We went to the famous 200-steps and I will always remember walking down them with her. We took pictures of each other and had photos taken of us with the ships in the background. The Black Sea was lovely and the ships impressive. We found lots of ships but no souvenier tee shirts. In fact, the only souvenirs I could find were pins and such along the steps by independent merchants. Where are the Odessa ballcaps and tee shirts??? Later we shoped for a bracelet for my lady but had no success. We came home to the apartment and had leftovers for lunch - very nice. Then we had a nap.
After waking up, we went out again. This time we sat on the steps just outside of her apartment and had a very serious but wonderful talk. She is now "stuck" with me.
Later in the day we took a taxi to a nice spot along the Black Sea. There was music and dancing and many people of all ages. It is there that I bought two little statues - one for her and one for me. Someday they will be together again. We sat at a little pub-like establishment and had a martini and orange juice. We listened to the American oldies such as Hound Dog, and The Twist. I sang along and she was amazed that I knew the words. As it grew dark, I found it interesting that the only light was strings of light bulbs - which provided very little light. What a contrast from America where it looks like day light at night due to the lighting. The atmosphere was wonderful. Arm-in-arm we walked, talked, and even danced for a moment before we were asked to stop - it seems we were required to buy drinks before we were allowed to dance. We simply left.
After a taxi ride back to the apartment, we talked a while and then ended my final full day in Odessa.
UPDATE: Sunday, August 16, 1998 - Today I will leave Odessa. It has been such a short trip, yet so much has happened. My life will never be the same. This morning after we got up and had coffee and cake for breakfast, we dressed up for pictures. First, I took her picture in the exact spot where she was standing in the first picture I ever saw of her. Wow, it was like waking up into a dream. She stood there so beautiful and I snapped away. Then her dad took pictures of the two of us together.
We then took to the streets for a morning walk. The air was cool and clean along the shaded streets. There were few people out. We went to a jewlery store and I bought her a gold bracelet to remember me by. We walked and walked, seeing new sights such as the statue of the Ukrainian poet and a beautiful new apartment building. We stopped at a small cafe for a drink of juice and water. It was the most relaxing and refreshing time I spent in Odessa. The other days I felt that I was always in a rush, while this morning was just a time to slow down and soak it all in. The city was so beautiful this morning.
When we returned to the apartment, we took pictures with all of us together. This was also a special moment. The parents then brought me a beautiful porcelain statue of a Ukrainian girl. I wrapped it with towels for the flight home. After a few minutes of recording a final conversation on tape, it was time to grab my suitcase and head for the airport. At 3:30pm we drove to the Odessa airport and at 5pm we flew to Kiev.
In Kiev we stayed in the Borispil airport hotel. It was a melancholy time, with the departure approaching so quickly. That evening for supper we ate at the airport restuarant - chicken, fries, salad, and a coke. We went back to the hotel and to bed with the alarm set for 5am.
UPDATE: Monday, August 17, 1998 - I awoke at 4:30am and turned off the alarm clock. This morning we walked to airport very early. I did not want to go. At the airport restuarant we had coffee. I told her that the next time we drink coffee will be at her table again. It was so difficult to say goodbye. We clung to each other. Then she helped me to the right line to check in for my flight. After a bit of fumbling around we were separated. I waved goodbye as I climbed the stairs in the airport and she waved as she vanished out of sight.
Saying goodbye was perhaps the most difficult thing I have ever done. But then it was into the plane, and to Germany, to America, and home again. The flight was uneventful. Once at the home airport, I got my luggage and drove the 2.5 hour trip home. When I got there I called to say I had made it. My first trip to Odessa, Ukraine had ended.
Now I begin making plans for my return in December!